The watch I Didn't Expect to Love

I recently impulse-bought an IWC Pilot Mark XVIII at a second-hand store in Tokyo.

I’m not entirely sure why, but I was mesmerised by its simplicity and beauty. Sitting there quietly in the display case, it looked less like jewellery and more like a perfectly designed instrument. I paid just 2 500 euros for it, which in the world of Swiss watches feels like a clerical error.

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII belongs to the long lineage of aviation watches from IWC Schaffhausen, a family that goes all the way back to the legendary IWC Mark XI from 1948. Like its ancestors, the Mark XVIII follows a brutally simple philosophy: perfect legibility, nothing unnecessary.

The dial is a classic cockpit design. Large numerals, a clear minute track, and the unmistakable triangle at twelve o’clock. It is extremely clear what time it is.

At 40 mm, the watch wears beautifully. It feels solid but not oversized, and unlike many modern luxury watches, it doesn’t shout for attention. It just quietly does its job.

Inside is the IWC calibre 35110, a practical automatic movement based on a proven Swiss architecture. It’s reliable, easy to service, and perfectly in line with the spirit of the Mark series: this watch is built to be worn, not locked in a safe.

One thing that surprised me after buying it is the huge online community around these watches. Owners love experimenting with straps, NATO straps, canvas, vintage leather, and rubber. A quick strap change completely transforms the personality of the watch, which makes it a fun piece to play with. I have four different straps in various colours I switch between on a weekly basis.

And here is the part that really makes the Mark XVIII interesting today: value. For roughly the price of a mid-range laptop, you can own a beautifully made Swiss pilot watch from a historic brand. There are literally hundreds available on Chrono24 and eBay, so finding one isn’t difficult.

More importantly, you don’t have to cultivate a relationship with a boutique or spend years trying to impress a dealer just to buy the thing. You simply find one you like, click, and enjoy it.

Then, go to Amazon or eBay and start buying 20mm straps that you like. The straps are easy to change, and you will have a lot of fun. Try orange rubber!

In a watch world increasingly obsessed with hype, waiting lists, and artificial scarcity, that feels wonderfully refreshing.

Get one immediately. It’s a classic design, extremely wearable, and probably one of the most honest watches you can own.

And sometimes the watches you fall in love with on impulse turn out to be the best ones.

This post is not sponsored by IWC, it is my honest and humble opinion.

Peter Ternström

peter@granturismo.org